I Love Paris in the Winter, When It Embezzles After spending two and a half hours at the Louvre, I decided to go outside and take in some air. The cold wintry wind blowing from the Seine shook me back to the realization that I was in Paris on a rainy December day. I had a few hours to kill before I had to meet up with a friend for a late lunch and so decided to walk all the way from the Louvre to the Eiffel Tower.
Ah, the Eiffel Tower. I half-expected to see the top of the world's most famous landmark from the airport when the plane landed yesterday. I was mildly disappointed when I didn't see any sign of it walking around the Rue de Louvre where our hotel was. Where the fuck was it? Wasn't it visible everywhere from the streets of Paris like the opening scenes of Truffault's
400 Blows led me to believe? I soon realized after checking out the crappy free map from the hotel that the Eiffel Tower was at the Left Bank of the city while I have been all that time at the Right Bank. The Seine separates both parts of the city and, apparently, the tower isn't that tall enough for it to be spotted when you're at the other side.
I now understand that December is one of the worst months to be in Paris. It is brutally cold and the constant somber gray skies always threaten to drizzle just like what the Cole Porter song said. Indeed, the sky was overcast as I made my way across Pont du Carrousel over the Seine and towards Paris' Right Bank. There were just a few people walking about. Looking down at the river, I saw that its color was a blackish shade of chartreuse.
I had intended to walk through the whole stretch of the sidewalks which ring the bank of the river. I had no idea how far I had to walk as the map I had didn't seem to be accurate in terms of depicting scaling distances. I just thought that I only had to walk the equivalent of minutes before I'd be seeing the tower.
The light shower started when I got to Quai Voltaire where the booksellers were. I stopped for a bit to browse through the selection of books but I saw that all were in French. I didn't stand around too long as doing this in the rain was rather uncomfortable.
I had just passed the crowds at the Orsay Museum and was on the quiet part of the Quai Anatole France when I saw a man walking my way from the other direction. We passed and then I heard a voice calling out to me from behind.
"Monsieur!"
I turned and saw the man had stopped a few feet behind me and he seemed to be holding out something to me with his right arm.
"Look, monsieur!"
I turned away and decided to continue walking.
"Monsieur, please! Do you speak English?" he said as he caught up with me. He was now at my side and walking at the quick pace I was.
"No," I said which pretty much confirmed that I did. I turned to look at the guy and he was of medium height and built, had curly hair and a stubbled chin. He was also wearing a denim jacket which made me distrust him immediately.
"Look what I found, see?" as he once more held out to me the thing he was trying to show me.
It was a ring.
"It's a ring," Monsier Veston en Jean said rather anti-climactically.
"Okay," I replied without giving the damn thing a second look.
"It's yours?" he asked.
"No," I said.
"I give to you."
"No," I repeated.
"Please, monsieur. I give to you -- for luck."
"No, it's okay," I just said while continuing to walk.
"But, monsieur, I give to you."
"Please, please, take it."
I was just not interested but the guy wouldn't leave me the fuck alone. And so to just have my peace back I took the stupid ring from him.
"Okay, it is lucky...for you," the man said with a smile.
I mumbled a mercie without even taking a look at the fucking ring I just got from him.
With my back already turned, I hear the guy say, "Monsieur...give me money...for the ring." This caught me by surprise that I instinctively turned around and saw him with the smile already gone from his face.
"Give me money. For the ring," he said with a much serious tone this time.
Un-fucking-believable.
"Please, I give you ring. Now, give me money."
If I thought that he was persistent when he was offering to give me the ring I could just imagine how much more resolute he would be when this time, he was the one asking.
I dove my hand into my pocket and fished out two euros.
"This is all I have," I said as I handed the money to him.
When he saw the coins spread out on his palm he looked at me with as he probably would a can of deodorant -- this is supposed to be something useful to me?
"Give me more," he said, "I give you a ring."
"No more money," I said.
He shakes his head and says, "Give me back ring."
I looked around and saw that there was no one else. The street was deserted saved for the parked cars. I handed him back the ring and as soon as I did that, the guy turned around and walked away. No doubt he was pissed that he only managed to rip-off two euros from the rich Japanese tourist. Or so he must have been from Japan -- they're the only ones from Asia wealthy enough to go prancing about the Quai Anatole France at two in the afternoon.
I continued on my way in the rain. I was poorer by two euros but the thought that events could have been worse and a lot more costly made me feel a little better. Now, more than ever, I will be weary of men wearing denim jackets.
Eventually, I didn't make it all the way to the Eiffel tower that day. I got a text from my friend when I was still a long ways off at the Quai d'Orsay about lunch and turned back to cross the Pont de la Concorde.